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Blacks are into fashion. It’s not really a secret. Listen to a rap song — depending on the artist, the lyrics might sound like the rapper’s reading the Style.com homepage. Or look at the stats — black women spend more tha $20 billion on apparel each year.

Yet, the industry seriously takes us for granted. Or doesn’t take us seriously. Or wants to pretend like we don’t exist. This was directly reflected in last months runway shows, where black models were rare and sometimes completely missing. And black women should be represented on the runway as they are in the marketplace, it’s that designers and models set the mainstream Western standards of fashion and beauty.

And if there aren’t any black models wearing the clothes in magazines or strutting down the runway, what exactly are they trying to tell us?

Of the 101 shows and presentations posted on Style.com during the New York runway season, which ended a month ago, more than a third employed no black models, according to Women’s Wear Daily. Most of the others used just one or two. When the fashion caravan moved to London, Paris and Milan, the most influential shows — from Prada to Jil Sander to Balenciaga to Chloé and Chanel — made it appear as if someone had hung out a sign reading: No Blacks Need Apply.

“It’s the worst it’s ever been,” said Bethann Hardison, a former model who went on to start a successful model agency in the 1980s that promoted racial diversity.

So what do we do? Some have suggested boycotts.
It shouldn’t be too hard for people like me who can’t afford this stuff anyway. (Note to self: check to see if H&M uses any black models.) A more idealistic solution would be to not let the fashion world dictate to me or my future kids what beautiful means, but that is obviously easier said than done.

If you’re in NYC and would like to discuss this further, Bethann Hardison will be at the NY Public Library tonight at 6:45 to lead a panel discussion, featuring Tracy Reese, stylist Lori Goldstein, and casting agent James Scully. Click here for tickets.

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Oct 15, 2007 · Link · 12 Responses
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Tagged: Bethann Hardison · Fashion · Fashion Week
Comments (12)

No. 1 JillyBean819 says:

That’s because these companies want their clothing to be associated with high fashion and want the elite to be rocking their apparel.
They clearly do not feel that black people are elite enough for their tastes.

That’s why I say, F-em all! I’ll take my happy ass to Forever 21 or PacSun and get something cute.

Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 9:56 am
No. 2 Bronze Trinity says:

I say boycott and not to guy any high fashion goods from companies that don’t employ Black models. So all those women who buy expensive hand bangs and jewelry need to choose wisely. Besides, we should be spending our money on more important things. This whole designer label and bling bling materialism is not a good thing for us at all. We need to be spending on education, our own businesses, our institutions, and keeping ourselves healthy.

Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 10:06 am
No. 3 daria says:

I just wrote about this (http://whoseamerica.blogspot.com/2007/10/catwalks-whiter-than-greenwich-ct.html). I already decided not to get the YSL shoes after Stefano Pilati said black models have too much booty for his clothes. I actually went and looked on a model website to find black women with the desirable measurements. Out of 50 total models, I found 5 black women who are the right measurements. I seriously want a list to see which designers pull this B.S. Obviously, if black models don’t look good in their clothes supposedly then neither will black consumers so we should stop buying their products. Simple as that. It’s not boycotting. If the designer tells you it doesn’t look good on your people, save your money.

Diane von Furstenberg is the only designer (other than Kimora) who seems to think that black models look good in her designs regardless of the season.

Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 10:13 am
No. 4 Dinero says:

Maybe if Tyra would promote black models more (not saying that she hasnt, which she has; but she is the one leading the way so far) then she has and show the depth of black beauty then maybe they would change their views. I wonder how many european based designers have access to many black models in the first place. What happened to Nigeria’s Top Model. Put that on VH1!

Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 11:39 am
No. 5 daria says:

Dinero, black models get zero work in Paris these days. There are MANY MANY MANY black models in Europe. Milan, Paris and London all have loads of black models. Africa is closer to Europe so Europe gets more immigrants.

I want them to have a show in which they take women in developing countries who are underweight and suffering from malnutrition on the catwalk. Don’t have to buy them cocaine, they are already accustomed to inadequate nutrition and they can support their families. Works for the Eastern Europeans.

Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 12:12 pm
No. 6 blackmistressdiva says:

Daria is right. Paris hates black model. My cousin models and she took a scouting trip to Paris two years ago and she said they wouldn’t even look at her book. They told her to “look around” at French advertisements and TV and to notice how there are no black ppl. They told her she had a great look, but that she should go back to the US b/c they had no use for her. Straight up. She was taken aback, but in the end was happy that they were honest….unlike her agencies here.

Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 12:18 pm
No. 7 Dinero says:

Well, we need to support more black designers and just keep our money circulating throughout our communities.

Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 1:46 pm
No. 8 daria says:

Tracey Reese is out of my price range probably and Baby Phat… no comment.

Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 5:59 pm
No. 9 daria says:

I shop at Madewell (J Crew owned, more affordable, better quality), J Crew, The Gap and outlets

Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 6:01 pm
No. 10 blackmistressdiva says:

I shop more and more through a personal shopper. My friend Anita is a vintage personal shopper so I haven’t been in a store in two months. she has these great parties called “flying closets”. I got a vintage Oscar de la Renta suit for $145 and a some Gucci tuxedo pants from her on Saturday. Consiginment is the way to go. For now at least. She has a myspace but I can’t remember what she calls her company??? Anyway…if I can remember it, I’ll post it and you all can go see what she has (she takes paypal, too, for out of towners).

Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 6:24 pm
No. 11 abbey says:

No. Matter. What. Put a million fine women around Ms. Campbell, and she will bury them all. That is one photogenic woman. Wow.

Posted: Oct 15, 2007 at 6:35 pm
No. 12 yappay says:

Abbey, you are so right. I mean she’s a pretty odious person but man, she can take a picture.

Posted: Oct 16, 2007 at 12:47 am
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